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Kyiv's lovely historic architecture that accents its vast green areas, and its spacious boulevards lined with chestnut, poplar, and linden trees, give it an ambience of peaceful elegance that doesn't suggest the turbulence, suffering, and death that took place here in the first half of this century. Bolsheviks, Nazis, Soviets, and Ukrainian leaders battled for control of the city. When the Soviet government returned Ukraine's capital to Kyiv in the 1930's, over two dozen ancient churches and historic landmarks in the old city were senselessly destroyed to make way for new government buildings. Especially singled out were those churches built in the Ukrainian style by hetman Ivan Mazepa, who fought against Russia in 1709. During this decade, the city was modernized and industrialized, with improvements in railway, public utilities, and transportation.
The most devastating period was the two and one-half years of German occupation from 1941 to 1943 when 40 percent of the city was destroyed. Much of the damage was caused by the retreating Soviets who destroyed buildings on Khreshchatyk and adjacent streets and also blew up the Dormitioq Cathedral of the Monastery of the Caves. Before the Red Army regained the city, hundreds of thousands of citizens and troops lost their lives.
The three decades following the war saw the construction of massive edifices that catered to popular culture. The Palace of Sports, Palace of Culture, and Central Stadium were built, as well as the large tourist hotels that dot the city. The victories and heroes of the war are commemorated in bronze, granite, and concrete throughout the city.
While there's a reverent attitude toward the monuments honoring brave soldiers, others have not been so well received. To many, the massive works of "socialist monumentalism" that tower over the city with their excess of concrete and steel undermine the delicate beauty of the golden domed-churches. Furthermore, many feel little enthusiasm for the events commemorated by these monuments. For example, the gigantic arch resembling a steel rainbow that rises from the park behind the philharmonic Building is supposed to commemorate the "union" of Russia and Ukraine, but Ukrainians often referred to it as "The Yoke,"
Following the Ukrainian declaration of independence in 1991, changes took place at a dizzying pace. Statues of communist heroes were toppled and religious monuments restored. Streets, squares, and avenues were renamed, with the shuffling of names like a cartographical version of the musical chairs game; the prominent square named for Bohdan Khmelnytsky was given its old name, Sofiyivsky Square, while the name of Bohdan Khmelnytsky went to the street named Lenin. Local speculation had that the climate of change that swept over the city would even place into oblivion anything named for Bohdan Khmelnytsky, the hetman who signed the Pereyaslav Treaty of unification with Russia.
In the last few years foreign money has brought about a modern renaissance. Modern skyscrapers have transformed the skyline. The main shopping street lost its unique local character to the glitzy, expensive name brand shops found in every modern capital city. Kyiv won the dubious honor of erecting the world's biggest billboard, promoting a shampoo. Rapid changes, particularly the economic instability, have created an almost palpable sense of anxiety in Kyiv, not felt in other Ukrainian cities. Nevertheless, it remains a city of great elegance in which culture, art, and history are important and temporary difficulties arc met with acceptance and forbearance.
Tourist Concerns
Kyiv is a wonderful city to visit for its sightseeing and cultural opportunities. The people are friendly and the city center is relatively crime-free; a visitor feels safe wandering around the city and riding the metro at night. Nevertheless, a few cautions are necessary. Exercise extreme caution in crossing the street. Traffic is abominable; drivers speed and don't give pedestrians the right-of-way. Whenever possible, use the pedestrian underpasses. Driving in the traffic-clogged city is not recommended, and the relatively small size of the center and good public transportation make it unnecessary. Beware also of homeless dogs in the streets. Not all of them have been vaccinated and some are rabid.
The Chernobyl nuclear power station is only about 100 km (60 miles) north of Kyiv. While medical experts agree there is no danger to short-term visitors in the Kyiv area, a single note of caution is necessary. Enjoy the pretty sandy beaches and tree-lined parks of Trukhanov Island ^d on the east bank of the Dnipro, but don't swim in the river. The water itself no longer enjoys a reputation of being unpolluted, and even worse, the silt bottom is believed to be radioactive. While it's possible to clean the river channel, it's unfeasible since there's no good method for disposing of the contaminated particles.
Orientation to Kyiv
Kyiv straddles the Dnipro River, which divides it into two unequal parts. The western or right bank - as the river flows from north to south - is the larger of the two. On this side lies the modern city and the historical old town or upper town which was built on a hilly terrain. The eastern or left bank of the city is on an extensive flat plain characterized by a 10 km (6 miles) stretch of fine bathing beaches and a lovely recreational area that merges into drab industrialized suburbs with large housing developments.
The most efficient and convenient way to see the city is to take a sightseeing tour of the whole city when you first arrive in order to understand the layout. An individual guided motor tour of Kyiv costing about $50 for three hours can be arranged through the service bureaus of hotels. You can then choose which attractions you want to see in depth, and walk to many of them or easily zip from one to another on the metro system.
For sightseeing purposes, Kyiv can be divided into sections according to the separate settlement areas that historically grew around the city's hilly terrain. The main street of the Modern City is Khreshchatyk Street (Вулиця Хрещатик, vulytsya Khreshchayk). According to one account, its name comes from the word khreshchennya (хрещення) meaning "baptism," because it was the eastward route of Volodymyr's subjects to the Dnipro where they received the Christian faith. The Old Town (Старий Город, Staryy Horod), also known as Upper Town (Верхний Город, Verkhnyy Horod), contains most of the city's surviving historical and architectural monuments. North of the Old Town, down below on the flat land along the Dnipro, is Podil (Поділ)-This area contains the river port. To the south, on top of the riverbank, is Pechersk (Печерськ), the site of Ukraine's largest monastery.
The Modern City
After World War II, Khreshchatyk Street was totally rebuilt, and in 1998 it was given a major facelift. Today the city's main street, with its attractive landscaping and classy boutiques, can compete with the best of international thoroughfares. Khreshchatyk's mile-long stretch, from Independence to Besarabian Square, is 70 to 100 meters (230 to 328 feet) wide with a tree-lined pedestrian boulevard. It's the place for strolling, window shopping, and people watching. On weekends the street closes to vehicular traffic. While it's not noted for restaurants, Khreshchatyk Street does have cafes with ice cream, pastry, juice, and coffee.
At the northeast end of Khreshchatyk Street is the city's main square, Independence Square (площа Незалежності, ploshcha fjezalezhnosti). Maidan Nezalezhnosti, as it's commonly called, has long been a favorite gathering place of Kyivites. The metro station in front of the post office by Maidan Nezalezhnosti is a lively gathering place for musicians, artists, poets, stand-up comics, roller-bladers, activists, and city residents just out for a stroll.
Side streets along Khreshchatyk did not suffer much during the war and have preserved much of their tum-of-the-century appearance. About half way down, to the south, is Lyuteranska (Лютеранська) Street, with its late 19th-early-20th century mansions and luxurious apartment buildings, which now serve as apartments for the newly rich and as government offices. The street joins Bankivska (Банківська) Street, characterized by Art Nouveau Style architecture with its floral and animal motifs. The outstanding building in this style is the House with Chimeras, at 10 Bankivska Street, just above Ivan Franko Square. Built by noted architect Vladyslav Horodetsky in 1902 to 1903 as an apartment for him, the building is lavishly embellished with gigantic concrete fantasy creatures - mermaids, elephants, fat bullfrogs on gigantic lily pads. The bizarre-looking residence was Horodetsky's homage to the new building material of his day, concrete. Today the building serves as a clinic for the Cabinet of Ministers. Heading back toward Khreshchatyk, down Horodetskoho Street, one notices more fine old apartments and offices as well as movie theaters and some posh Western stores, such as Seagram's (fine liquors from around the world) and Lancombe (cosmetics). At 6 Horodetskoho is Mekos, a grocery store that caters to Western foreigners.
At the west end of Kheshchatyk Street is Besarabian Square (площа Бесарабська, ploshcha Besarabska), site of the first covered market in Ukraine. Besarabskyy Rynok (Бесарабський Ринок) was established in 1910 and is still the major farmers' market in Kyiv, with produce, meat, and other foodstuffs. Open daily, its prices are high but the produce is the freshest in town.
Running northwest from Besarabian Square is poplar-lined Taras Shevchenko Boulevard (бульвар Тараса Шевченка, bulvar Tarasa Shevchenka). A 5.8 meter (19 feet) tall bronze statue of the great poet-patriot set on a red granite pedestal stands in Shevchenko Park here. On the east side of the park at 9 Tereshchenkivska (Терещенківська) Street is The Kyiv Museum of Russian Art (Музей Російського Мистецтва, Muzey Rosiyiskoho Mystetstva). Located in a mid-1880s house built by sugar magnate and patron of the arts, F. Tereshchenko, the museum features Russian art from all periods. Old icons, Kyivan RUs artifacts, porcelain collections, and painting are among its highlights. Hours are Saturday through Wednesday, 10 a.m. until 5 p.m; Friday, noon until 5 p.m.; it's closed Thursdays and the last Wednesday of the month. Phone 224-62-18.
The Museum of Western and Oriental Art (Музей Західного та Східного Мистецтва, Muzey Zakhidnoho ta Skhidnoho Mystetstva), 15/17 Tereschenkivska Street, is based on the private collection of 19th century archeologist Bohdan Khanenko and is located in his mansion at 15/17 Tereschenkivska Street. On display are works of Italian, Flemish, and Spanish masters; works from Central Asia, the Near, Middle, and Far East; and ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine Art. Hours are 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. from Wednesday through Sunday. Phone 225-02-25.
Across Shevchenko Boulevard at number 12, the Taras Shevchenko Museum (Музей Т.Г. Шевченка) contains hundreds of paintings, drawings, and prints of the great poet. The museum is open daily except Monday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Phone 224-25-23. The Shevchenko House-Museum at 8A Shevchenko Lane is the house in which he lived and worked in 1846. Landscape paintings Shevchenko completed while living here are on display, and some of his personal belongings are in the room upstairs. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day except Friday. Phone 228-35-11.
The red-painted Classic-style building on the west side of Shevchenko Park at 64 Volodymyrska (Володимирська) Street is the main building of Taras Shevchenko University, also known as Kyiv State University. Founded in 1834, it was destroyed during the Nazi occupation of Kyiv and rebuilt from 1946 to 1952. Today it's the most prestigious institute of higher education in Ukraine.
The A. Fomin Kyiv State University Botanical Gardens are behind the University's main building on Shevchenko Boulevard and extend south to Lva Tolstoho Street. The 23 hectares (56 acres) of neatly arranged and well-kept plots contain some 10,000 plants, shrubs, and trees arranged by habitat. Just northeast of the gardens on 20 Shevchenka Boulevard is the massive St. Volodymyr Cathedral (Володимирський Собор, Volodymyrskyy Sobor). The church was built in the late 19th century in the pseudo-Byzantine style to commemorate the 900th anniversary of Christianity in Kyiv. Especially noteworthy are the frescoes. This is the head church of the Kyiv Patriarchate of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church. Daily liturgy is at 9 a.m. and 6 p.m.; Sunday morning services are at 9 and 12 with the Patriarch presiding at the noon service. The choir singing is excellent.
Old Town (Старий Город Staryy Horod)
Volodymyrska Street (вулиця Володимирська, vulytsya Volodymyrska), is the main street of the old town. At number 40a, in front of the metro stop of the same name, stands Kyiv's oldest architecture, The Golden Gate (Золоті Ворота, Zoloti Vorota), immortalized in Mussorgsky's piano piece, Pictures at an Exhibition. This site was the center of ancient Kyiv during the reigns of princes Volodymyr the Great and Yaroslav the Wise. Constructed in 1037, The Golden Gate served as the main triumphal entrance to the city as well as a watch tower. The original structure was of brick and stone and consisted of a tower with a vaulted passageway topped by a platform for guards and a small Church of the Annunciation. The doors and cupola of the gate-church were covered with gilded copper sheets, giving the gate its name.
The arch was damaged in 1240 during the Tatar-Mongol raids, but continued to serve as the city's entrance until the 17th century. Eventually the arch fell into disuse and became buried under the earth. In 1837 the ruins - consisting of some brick and stone columns and portions of the arch - were excavated and reinforced. In 1982 the Golden Gate was restored according to scholarly research to commemorate the city's 1, 500th birthday. The reconstruction consists of a tower over the vaulted passageway with a small church and pavilion on top. A monument to Yaroslav the Wise holding a model of St. Sophia Cathedral was unveiled in 1997. Take the metro to Golden Gate Station, which, with its mosaic work and candelabra, is possibly the city's most beautiful subway stop.
At the north end of Volodymyrska Street, is one of the city's major squares, St. Sophia's Square (площа Софійська, ploshcha Sofiyska). Formerly named after Bohdan Khmelnytsky, the square is the site of a 10.85 meter (36 foot-high) monument to the Kozak leader. The 0-ton bronze sculpture of Herman Khmelnytsky stands on the spot where Kyivites gave him a triumphal welcome in 1648, after he defeated toe Polish invaders.
Near the square is St. Sophia Cathedral (Софійський Собор, Sofiyskyy Sobor), a masterpiece of world architecture, with beautiful jnosaics and frescoes of religious and secular themes that blend "armoniously with mosaic floors and marble decorations. It was established by Yaroslav the Wise in 1037 to commemorate his victory on the site over the invading Pechenegs. St. Sophia's became the center Of official state ceremonies and commemorations as well as a library ajjj center of writing. The early Kyivan princes were entombed here but the only remaining tomb is that of Yaroslav the Wise, who was buried jn 1054 in a six-ton carved marble sarcophagus.
The cathedral and monastery complex was built over a period of nine centuries. The basic structure of the church is original. fts thousands of square feet of mosaics and frescoes in combination are a Kyivan interpretation of the Byzantine style. Especially noteworthy are the color gradations of the mosaic stones: 25 tons of gold and silver alone are used. Of the one-third of the original mosaics that survive, the most noted is that of the Christ Pantokrator in the central dome.
During its long history, the cathedral was repeatedly gutted by fire and rebuilt, so that the bulk of what there is to see comes from restorations and additions over the centuries. It grew from nine to 19 domes. The original Romanesque style was preserved until the 17th century when St. Sophia was enlarged and rebuilt in the Ukrainian Baroque style. The Ukrainian Orthodox Church uses the cathedral for major events only. It still functions as a museum with exhibits on the cathedral's history and on the architecture of Kyivan Rus. It's open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day except Thursdays. An extra fee is required in order to photograph the cathedral interior. The 76 meter (250-foot) Bell Tower is southeast of the cathedral. Built in the 18th century and rebuilt in the 19th, the tower's four stories reflect the evolution of Ukrainian architecture.
About 300 meters southeast of St. Sophia is a promenade leading to Mykhaylivska Square, the newly-built center of spiritual life in Ukraine. A monument to revered Ukrainian saints Olha, Andrew, Cyril and Methodius was unveiled in 1996. Later a four-story bell tower was built. The bell tower contains a modern carillon system with an 84-ton bell; a chapel dedicated to the victims of the 1932-33 Great Famine; and a museum with a history of St. Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery. This early 12th century monastery, second in importance to St. Sophia, stood on the spot until it was destroyed in the 1930s by Stalin in his attempt to crush Ukraine's cultural and spiritual legacy. The cathedral church of the monastery has also been rebuilt in a recreation of its 19th century Ukrainian Baroque style, with six gilded blue and white cupolas. Further restoration will include its monks' dormitories.
To the north at 2 Volodymyrska is the National Historical Museum of Ukraine (Національний Музей Історії України, Natsionalnyy Muzey Istoriyi Ukrayiny). Founded in 1899, the museum is located on Starokyivska (Old Kyiv) Hill, where the vestiges of Oesyatynna Church and other 10th to 13th century remnants are visible. On display are archeological and ethnographical discoveries from prehistoric times, the Tripillia culture, the Scythians, the early Slavs, and (j,e Kozaks; as well as coins, works of art, and old books. The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily except Wednesday. Telephone 228-29-24. The museum is on a bluff near the highest point of the city, Volodymyr Hill. The terraces and parks surrounding the hill constitute Central Park, laid out in the 1830s and 1840s. In 1853, a 4.5-meter (15 feet), six-ton statue of the prince-saint was erected here. This solitary bronze figure - perhaps the quintessential image of the city - is dressed as an ancient warrior who, with cross in hand, overlooks the flowing river in which he had his subjects baptized. Visible below is a pedestrian bridge which connects the west bank with the beaches.
At the end of Volodymyrska Street is another landmark, St. Andrew Church (Андріївська, Andryivska), at the top of Andriyivska Hill. With its white and turquoise facade and green domes all accented with ornate golden trim, St. Andrew's is another familiar postcard subject. This rococo church was built from 1747-1753 on the site where St. Andrew the Apostle in 50 C.E. supposedly erected a cross and predicted that a great city would be founded. The architect is Bartolomea Rastrelli, an Italian who founded the Russian Baroque style. The central dome, flanked by four slender towers topped with small cupolas, is a variation of the traditional Ukrainian five-domed church. The graceful interior is accented with an iconostasis that's decorated with carved gilded ornaments, sculptures, and icon paintings. The terrace surrounding the church is a vantage point for a great view of the river and the Podil district below, but the church itself is undergoing repairs and not open to toe public.
You can get down to the lower town or Podil district by descending Andriyivskyy Uzviz (Андріївський Узвіз) Street from St. Andrew Church. On this long, steep, winding cobblestone street - the city's most popular tourist walk - artists sell their works and galleries, ^ops, and small cafes flourish. At 13 Andriyivskyy Uzviv is the Mikhail Bulgakov Museum. Bulgakov, a renowned Russian satirical writer, lived here from 1906 to 1916 and again from 1918 to 1919. The Sfcven-room apartment has been restored with the author's personal effects and family photos and is a vision in white, after his first major work, The White Guard. To return to the top of the street without walking up the ascent, take the funicular railroad from Post Offlc Square or Ploshcha Poshtova (площа Поштова) in the Podil district up the steep slope of Volodymyr Hill to Mykhaylivska Square. The railroad, built in 1905, has all-metal cars and accommodates gn passengers.
Podil (Поділ, po-DEEL)
The Podil district begins at the foot of Volodymyrska Hill and extends north along the river flats. While in olden times the upper city was the home of the nobility and ecclesiastics, Podil was settled by fishermen merchants, and artisans, and it still has a small town ambience. Much of the architecture has undergone restoration in recent years. The focal point of Podil is Contract Square (площа Контрактова, ploshcha Kontraktova). The square is named after its most prominent landmark, the House of Contracts, which was built in the Classic style in 1817 as a hall for negotiating agreements between merchants and landowners. In the vicinity are Hospitable Court or Hostynnyy Dvir (Гостинний Двір), built as a mansion in 1809 and restored from 1983 to 1987 with shops' and a restaurant; the Kyivan Brotherhood or Bratsky Monastery; the Kyiv Mohyla Academy, identified by its circular Classic central building dating from 1822-1825; and a monument to Hryhoriy Skovoroda, the 18th century philosopher known as the "Ukrainian Socrates." To visit these Podil landmarks, take the metro to Ploshcha Kontraktova Station.
The Kyivan Brotherhood Monastery (Київо-Братський Монастир, Kyivo-Bratskyy Monastyr), 2 Skovorody (Сковороди) Street, was founded in 1616. It was affiliated with the Kyiv Epiphany Brotherhood, an Orthodox order founded by wealthy burghers, nobles, clerics, and Kozaks to protect the Orthodox faith from the onslaught of Polish rule and Roman Catholicism. The complex includes a seminary, refectory, and Holy Spirit Church, in the Ukrainian Baroque style, dating from the 18th century. Nearby is the Kyivan Mohyla Academy, which was established in 1632 by the merging of the Epiphany Brotherhood School with the Kyivan Cave Monastery School.
St. Nicholas Naberezhna Church (Набережно-Микільська Церква, Naberezhno-Mykilska Tserkva), or Church of the Embankment, is at 12 Skovoroda Street. This Ukrainian Baroque church from 1772-1775, has an elegant facade highlighted by the colonnade ornamentation of the drum supporting the cupola; inside, the Classic-style iconostasis is noteworthy. In 1863 a church with a belfry was added on to the earlier church.
St. Frol Convent (Фролівський Монастир, Frolivskyy Monastyr), 5 Liever Street and 6/8 Florivska Street, was founded in the l5th century. It merged with the Ascension Convent in 1712 to become one of the country's largest. Daughters of the most aristocratic Ukrainian and Russian families took the veil here and their talents established its fame as a center of gold embroidery. Today it's a functioning convent again. Most of the architectural ensemble was constructed in the 18th and 19th centuries and includes the 1732 Church of the Ascension, the 1824 Resurrection Church, a belltower, and dormitories.
St. Cyril Church (Кирилівська, Kyrylivskd) Museum, 42 Oleny Telihy Street, about 4.8 km (3 miles) northwest of the city center, is a valuable specimen of Kyivan-Rus architecture of the 12th century. Its original form and extensive mural paintings of the 12th, 17th, and 19th centuries have been preserved. The church was commissioned by the wife of the Prince of Chernivhiv around 1146 to serve as the cathedral of an ancestral monastery. The rectangular structure was built according to a cruciform construction with three naves and apses, six pillars, and a single dome. In the 12th and 13th century it was a royal burial place. In the mid-18th century, exterior reconstruction gave it a Ukrainian Baroque appearance. To get to the church, take Trolleybus No. 18.
Pechersk (Печерськ, peh-CHEHR'SK)
Pechersk gets its name from the Pecherska Lavra (Печерська Лавра), literally "the Cave Monastery," a complex of 40 structures representing eight centuries of art and architecture. This section of the city contains a large riverfront stretch of parkland that extends about 5 km (3 miles) from St. Andrew Church near Podil as far south as the Academy of Sciences Botanical Garden. The park is an enjoyable place to stroll and observe the residents of Kyiv in their leisure, to take in a concert, or stop for a snack. Monuments, restaurants, and a large amphitheater are in this area. There are also government buildings, notably the glass-domed Parliament, in which the country's independence was declared on August 24, 1991, and the ten-story block that houses the Council of Ministers.
Mariyinskyy Palace (Маріїнський Палац), 5 Hrushevskoho (Грушевського) Street, is behind the Parliament building just over half a mile from the art museum. The blue and white palace was designed in the rococo style by Bartolomeo Rastrelli, the Italian architect who also designed many of St. Petersburg's great buildings. It was originally built from 1747 to 1755 as a tsarist palace. Used sporadically, it was renovated in 1870 for the visit of Emperor Alexander II and Empress Maria, for whom it's named. Today it's used for official state meetings and receptions. To get there take Trolleybus No. 20 or Bus No. 15 o 62.
National Fine Arts Museum (Національний Художній Музей України, Natsionalnyy Khudozhniy Muzey Ukrayiny)
6 Hrushevskoho Street, is housed in a stately Greek neoclassical building erected from 1897 to 1900. It has a large collection of Ukrainian icons, paintings drawings, and sculpture from the 12th century to the present. The museum contains sections on old art, 19th and early 20th-century art, and contemporary art. Take Trolleybus No. 20. Open 10 a.m. until 5 p.m daily except Friday. Telephone 228-64-82.
The Pecherska Lavra covers 28 hectares (70 acres) of the riverfront parkland between the Metro Bridge and the Paton Bridge. It originated in 1051 when two monks, Antoniy and Feodosiy (Theodosius), founded a monastery in natural caves and built a church above it. Supported by the Kyivan princes and boyars, the monastery prospered and grew into one of the largest religious and intellectual centers in the Orthodox world. Noted chroniclers, scholars, architects, painters, and physicians lived and worked at the monastery. From the llth through the 20th century, 86 buildings were constructed. For centuries, hundreds of thousands of Orthodox faithful have come to visit the relics of Antoniy and Feodosiy, who were canonized in 1643, and of the later saints entombed in the caves.
In 1926 the complex was declared the Kyivan Cave Historical-Cultural Preserve. In recent years it was returned to the Moscow Patriarchate of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church, and today functions half as an active monastery and half as a museum. Several of the churches on the grounds hold services, others are just for viewing. Several important museums are located on the grounds. Touring the caves and a couple other highlights can be done in three hours, but at least a day is necessary to do the complex justice.
The Pecherska Lavra complex is open daily except on Tuesday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. The caves close at 4 p.m. In wet weather, some of the buildings close to avoid mudtracks on the floors. A cafeteria and gift shop are on the grounds. The ticket office at 25 Sichnevoho Povstannya (Січневого Повстання) Street, outside the Trinity Gate Church, sells general admission tickets; inside, tickets are sold for a few of the individual attractions. A permit fee for photographing building interiors is also required. Take Trolleybus No. 20 to the Pecherska Lavra.
The Caves (Печери, Pechery) are situated in the Lower Lavra, the hilly southern half of the complex. They consist of two underground labyrinths of tunnels ranging from 5 to 10 meters deep (16 to 33 feet) with corridors up to 1.5 meters (5 feet) wide and 2 meters (6 and One-half feet) deep. Excavated in these soft sandstone catacombs are small burial niches containing the remains of monks and saints that have been naturally mummified due to the chemical composition of the soil and the cool, constant temperature. The caves are divided into the Near and Far Caves.
The Near, or St. Antoniy Caves, are 228 meters (750 feet) long. They contain 75 burial niches, including those of Antoniy and of the monk Nestor, the first Ukrainian historian, who died in 1115. Interspersed among the crypts are frescoes and three churches: Church of the Presentation of the Temple (Введенська, Vvedenska); St. Antoniy Church (Антонівська, Amonivska); and St. Varlaam Church (Варлаамська, Varlaamska). A gilded bronze iconostasis is in each church.
Just west of the entrance to the caves is the exquisitely decorated church of the Elevation of the Holy Cross (Хрестовоздвиженська, Khrestovozdvyzhenskd), dating from 1700. The church has three apses and a Baroque-style wood-carved and gilded iconostasis built in 1769. The southern portal is richly decorated with stucco work.
The Far, or St. Theodosius Caves, extend for 280 meters (920 feet). Their entrance is in the Conception of St. Anne Church (Аннозачатіївська, Annozachatiyivska). The church dates back to 1679. It features a tent-shaped cupola and a carved oak iconostasis. The cave beneath contains 45 burial niches and three churches: Nativity (Різдва, Rizdva); St. Theodosius (Феодосіївська, Feodosiyivska); and the Annunciation Church (Благовіщенська, Blahovishchenska).
The underground passages of the caves go deep into the ground. They are narrow, and, in places, dimly lit and a bit slippery. Your admission fee gets you a candle from the attending monks, but a tiny flashlight would be more dependable. Rubber-soled walking shoes are also recommended. Visitors to the caves are encouraged, but they are reminded that these are holy places for Orthodox believers and an attitude of reverence is maintained at all times. Women should wear skirts and men should wear long pants.
Upper Lavra. The majority of the architectural structures are situated on the flat plateau that constitutes the Upper Lavra. Over the centuries many of the buildings suffered from periodic looting or destruction by invaders or damage from fire. Reconstruction in the 17th and 18th centuries funded by Kozak hetmen and officers give the complex a Ukrainian Baroque feel. Later construction in the 19th and 20th centuries was in a Russian synodal style. Here are some of the noteworthy structures in the Upper Lavra:
Holy Trinity Gate Church (Троїцька Надбрамна Церква, Troyitska Nadbramna Tserkva) is a narrow, four-tiered, single-domed church located above the main entranceway to the complex. Originally built from 1106 to 1108, it's not been changed since its early 18th century reconstruction. The church is a good example of Ukrainian Baroque art and architecture. Ourside, embellished stucco molding frame the icons. The interior features an openwork gilded iconostasis made by Lavra woodcarvers, wonderful painted murals, and a floor of molded cast-iron slabs.
The Great Belltower, 96.5 meters (318 feet) high, was built by architect Johann Shadel from 1731 to 1745 in the classical style, and topped by a gilded cupola. Each of its four octagonal tiers are adorned with columns, pilasters, and cornices. There's a stairway to the top from which you can see the extent of the Lavra grounds and enjoy a magnificent windowed vista of every corner of the city. A small gift shop is at the top. There's a separate admission charge for the belltower.
Behind the Belltower to the east are the ruins of Dormition (Assumption) Cathedral. First constructed from 1073 to 1078, this was the first stone structure of the complex and the primary church. Over the years the cathedral was damaged, rebuilt, and enlarged several times, and finally destroyed in 1941 by mines laid by Soviet forces retreating from the Germans. In 1991 the Cabinet of Ministers of Ukraine passed a resolution to reconstruct it and this work is now in progress.
The church of All Saints (Всіх Святих, Vsikh Svyatykh, 1695-1698), is located above the Economic Gate, the administrative and service office on the north edge of the complex. Often called the gem of Ukrainian Baroque architecture, this large church with five gilded domes was modeled after Ukrainian two-storied wooden, cruciform churches. It contains a carved and gilded wooden iconostasis from the 18th century and brilliant interior murals painted in 1905 by students of the Lavra icon painting school. The exterior is delicately ornamented with pilasters, ledges, cornices, and moldings.
In the center of the complex is the Refectory Church, so-called because it's adjacent to the two-story refectory (dining hall). The church was built in 1893-1895 in the official Russian synodal style. It has a large flat central dome painted with gold rays that is topped by a small cupola and surrounded by four gilded cupolas. The spacious interior is splendid. The church is the head church of the Moscow Patriarchate of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church. Liturgy is performed daily at 7 a.m. and 5 p.m. and Saturdays at 4:30 p.m.
Several museums are in the Upper Lavra. Each requires a separate admission fee. Fees are two-tiered, with foreigners paying more than Ukrainian citizens. Having a Ukrainian colleague purchase your ticket will not work; if your ticket is checked, youll have to pay more and may be subject to a fine. Museums open daily at 10 a.m. and close in the late afternoon, except for Tuesdays when the Lavra is closed.
Historical Museum of Treasures (Історичний Музей Коштовностей, Istorychnyy Muzey Koshtovnostey)
In building 10, the former monastery bakery, is extremely popular and oriented to group tours. On display are precious stones or metals excavated or made in Ukraine, organized according to historical era. Exhibits include pre-historic cultures, the Scythian period, Kyivan Rus era, 14th to 18th century Ukraine, and 19th and 20th century Ukraine. The highlight is the ornate jewelry collected from 4th century B.C.E. Scythian burial mounds in the Dnipropetrovska and Zaporizhska regions; the star of the museum - and perhaps the most renowned museum exhibit in all Ukraine - is a gold pectoral from the Tovsta Mohla burial mound. The large chestpiece is elaborately embellished with animal figures. A numismatics section displays coins of ancient Greece, Rome, and Kyiv-Rus. Photography is not permitted. Telephone 290-1396.
State Museum of Books and Bookprinting is in buildings 9 and 10, the original location of the monastery's printing press in the early 17th century. Devoted to the history of printing in Ukraine, the museum displays samples of early books of every type, including those of Ivan Fedorov, the first printer in Russia and Ukraine; graphics; printing equipment; miniature books and much more of interest to book lovers. Tel. 290-22-10.
Ukrainian Decorative Folk Arts Museum, is in Trapezna Hall, the former residence of the Kyivan Metropolitan, attached to the Refectory Church. The museum covers the historical development of each type of folk art from the 16th to the 20th century. On display are printed and Woven textiles, dress, embroidery, ceramics, glass, porcelain, Woodcarving, and fabrics from the past as well as from contemporary Itlasters. There's an especially good collection of old carpets woven in different parts of Ukraine and samples from major porcelain producers.
Near the Ukrainian Decorative Folk Arts Museum is an offbeat ' but fascinating Museum of Miniatures featuring micro-miniature art of all sorts - paintings, carvings, and engravings - so small they can be seen only with a microscope. On display are the world's tiniest book, a copy of Shevchenko's Kobzar with a carved portrait of the poet, and various works of art on fruit and vegetable seeds. All the miniatures are the creation of contemporary artist Mykola Syadrysty from Kharkiv.
Theater and Cinema Arts (Музей Театрального та Кіномистецтва, Muzey Teatralnoho ta Kinomystetstva), in buildings 24-26, displays costumes, stage decorations, posters, drama manuscripts, musical scores, and all sorts of memorabilia from outstanding Ukrainian actors, directors, filmmakers, playwrights, and composers dating back to the early part of the century. Telephone 290-16-22.
Directly north of the Lavra, is a rather plain-looking church remnant with considerable historical and architectural interest. The Church of the Savior at Berestove is generally believed to date to the second half of the 11th century with major rebuilding in the Ukrainian Baroque style in the 17th century. Frescoes and murals from the 12th to the 17th century have been uncovered, and excavations are still going on. Originally thought to be the burial place of the ruling family of ancient Kyiv, only the tomb of Yuri Dolgorukiy, the founder of Moscow, remains.
At 29 Sichnevoho Povstannya (Січневого Повстання) Street, not far from the Lavra entrance, is the Ivan Honchar Museum. Established in 1993, the museum is based on the collections of artist Ivan Honchar, who attempted to document the national character and mentality of Ukraine. On display are paintings, engravings, sculpture, folk art, and traditional costumes collected from all over the country. Of special interest are 16th to early 20th century folk icons from different regions.
A short walk south of the Caves Monastery, up a hillside to 4 Sichnevoho Povstannya Street, is the History of the Great Patriotic War Museum. The museum consists of 14 rooms depicting various aspects of Soviet participation in World War II, plus a display of tanks on a plaza outside. Hours are Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. until 6 p.m. Topping the museum is "The Motherland," a huge steel statue of a woman holding a sword and shield. In a city fueled by rumors, many of them concern this unpopular Soviet-style monument that has dominated the city's architecture since it was erected in 1981. Local lore has it that Kyivites objected to anything taller than the nearby Great Bell Tower of the Caves Monastery, so the sword was shortened. There's also a dubious attitude toward official statistics that rank the combined pedestal and female statue some 5 to 10 meters taller than the bell tower. According to a current story - merely wishful thinking, say some - the monument is slowly and unevenly sinking into the cave-like foundation beneath it, and some day it will topple over.
Just over a half mile south of this controversial monument is a charming little complex, St. Vydubytskyy Monastery (Видубицький Монастир), that was originally established in the 11th century and restored through the 18th. Its centerpiece is the elegant Ukrainian Baroque St. George Cathedral (Георгіївський Собор, Heorhiyivskyy Sobor, 1696-1701). Built in a cruciform design with nine chambers, the cathedral's tall, narrow towers are topped by five cupolas set on polygonal drums, giving it the vertical appearance typical of wooden churches of the Dnipro region. There's also a refectory, a belfry with a pretty top dotted with gold stars, and a remnant of the St. Michael Cathedral (Михайлівський Собор, Mykhaylivskyy Sobor, 1070-1088), with a fragment of an 11th-12th century fresco, "The Last Judgement." Take Trolleybus No. 14 or 15 to 40 Vydubytska Street.
The Botanical Gardens of the Ukrainian Academy of Sciences are adjacent to the Vydubytskyy Monastery. Construction of the gardens began with German prisoner-of-war labor in 1944, but the gardens weren't completed and opened until 1964. The Academy uses the gardens for horticultural research and five continents are represented in its 13,000 varieties. The lilac collection, in bloom in May, is particularly noteworthy. The fragrance of lilacs, the song of the nightingale, and the view of the river behind the beautiful church below, make this garden a lovely walking tour. Open hours are from 9 a.m. until 4 p.m. every day. A small entrance fee is charged. Take the metro to the Druzhby Narodiv stop or take Trolley No. 14.
Other Things To See
Babi Yar (Babyn Yar, Бабин Яр, in the Ukrainian language), the memorial to Kyivites slaughtered by the Nazis during World War JJ, is in a tranquil city park lined with birch trees about 3.2 km (2 miles) northwest of the city center on Oleny Teliha Street between Melnykov and Dorohozhytsky Streets. Actually there are two monuments that commemorate the horrific event. In 1976 a monument consisting of 11 bronze figures was erected in memory of "Soviet citizens" who were "victims of fascism." The central figure was a communist resistance fighter. The monument ignored the fact that Jews constituted the majority of the 150,000 victims; other victims were Soviet prisoners of war, partisans, Ukrainian nationalists, gypsies, and anyone considered a threat to German authority. The monument was also controversial because the Soviet government had erected it some distance from the actual execution and burial site, which it had leveled and upon which it had constructed a highway and housing complex. Following independence, the Ukrainian government invited the government of Israel to erect a new monument. Dedicated in 1991 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the slaughter, the new monument consists of a 10-foot high bronze menorah that was erected about three-quarters of a mile from the first one, closer to the actual site of execution. Take Trolleybus No 16.
The Museum of Folk Architecture and Folkways is worth the 19-krn (12-mile) trip south of the city to the village of Pyrohiv (Пирогів). The 150-hectare (375-acre) outdoor display recreates 16th to 20th-century village life in different regions of Ukraine. The more than 300 restored cottages, granaries, barns, wooden churches, schools, and other village structures are meticulously preserved and furnished with period furniture, utensils, and embroidered linens. The exhibits are organized into farmsteads and villages representing diverse regions of Ukraine and showing the variations in their folk art. Of special interest is the exhibition southeast of the entrance depicting fully furnished village homes from the 1960s and 1970s from each of the country's 24 regions, plus Crimea. A stroll through the well-tended hilly terrain past the farmers, housewives, and craftspeople at work is a step back into the past. Exhibits are widely spaced, so that a fair amount of walking is required. Traditional Ukrainian meals are available in the Yarivtsi tavern and in the ale-house and handcrafted items are sold in several cottages. Special festivals take place on religious holidays and historical memorial dates. Take Bus No. 24 or No. 61 from National Center of Exhibitions and Fairs of Ukraine in Holosiyivskyy Park im. Maksyma Rylskoho (Голосіївський парк ім. Максима Рильського) at prospekt 40-richya Zhovtnya. The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Between November and May the hours are shortened and some of the buildings are closed.
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